High Altitudes and Hummingbirds: Colombia’s Cloud Forest Magic

Anna Orr
Aug 3
7 min read

Updated: Aug 19

After a very early morning wake-up call, we headed out for our first full day of photography. It was a long drive, but we stopped along the way to attempt to catch a glimpse of one of the rarest birds in the world: the Yellow-eared Parrot.

🟡 Yellow-eared Parrot: A Rare and Remarkable Sighting

At one time, the Yellow-eared Parrot was believed to be extinct in the wild. It was rediscovered in the Colombian Andes in 1999, and the population has been closely monitored since. The number of mature individuals is around 1,000—and thankfully, it’s increasing. Since the late ’90s, the species has gone from Critically Endangered, to Endangered, to Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List.

Intense conservation efforts have helped stabilize its current range, and there’s hope the population will continue its remarkable recovery. This was one of the most difficult target species of the trip, and we were incredibly lucky to have not one, but two extended—albeit distant—views of these incredible birds.

A rare Yellow-eared Parrot perches high in the Colombian Andes—once thought extinct, this vibrant green bird has made a remarkable comeback thanks to conservation efforts. Fewer than 1,000 mature individuals remain, making each sighting a true privilege.

🌿 Mirador el Roble: Hospitality, Hummingbirds & a Hard Choice

From there, we headed to our birding spot for the day: Mirador el Roble. I say “birding spot,” but it was so much more than that. It was my first true introduction to the incredible generosity of the Colombian people.

One of the most fascinating things about ecotourism in Colombia is that many of the best birding locations are located on private land. The model is simple and brilliant:

A homeowner realizes they have incredible bird activity on their property.
They set up feeder stations to draw birds in consistently.
They place perches near the feeders in ideal spots for photography.
They spread the word to local guides (often through word of mouth).
They charge for access, providing a reliable income and incentive to protect the land.

Even better? Most of these privately owned birding spots offer home-cooked meals. Usually breakfast, since birders are up and out early—though we had lunch at a few places too. At Mirador el Roble, we were treated to hot Colombian coffee or chocolate con leche, fresh fruit, eggs, arepas (a Colombian staple), and a mild cheese that was popular at breakfast. The food varied from place to place, but one thing was true everywhere: it was delicious—and lovingly served from someone’s own kitchen.

*A traditional Colombian breakfast - with fresh guacamole!*

🌈 Hummingbirds in the Highlands

Mirador el Roble was also my first introduction to the hummingbirds of Colombia. With around 165 species, Colombia is home to about 45% of the world’s hummingbirds. (Well, “world’s” is a bit of a misnomer—hummingbirds only live in the Americas.)

I count hummers among my favorite birds, both for their dazzling colors and their energetic personalities. They make incredible photography subjects. Seeing them flit between flowers, feeders, and treetops was overwhelming in the best way.

We had ten hummingbird species visiting this spot. It wasn’t the most ideal setup for photography, but it was still so special to just sit and watch them zip around. Sometimes they flew so close you could feel the breeze from their wings.

A Buff-tailed Coronet perches with a beak full of moss, gathering nesting material in the cloud forests of Colombia. Known for their bold behavior and vivid green plumage, these hummingbirds are a joy to photograph during breeding season.

🐾 The Antpitta or the Oncilla?

After breakfast and some birdwatching, we had a decision to make. One option was to take a short hike to see a Chami Antpitta. Antpittas are odd-looking birds—long legs, round bodies, like eggs on stilts. They’re shy forest dwellers, often foraging on or near the ground for ants and insects. The Chami Antpitta is endemic to Colombia and is sometimes considered part of the rufous antpitta complex.

It would’ve been a great bird to add to the life list.

The second option? Stay put in hopes of seeing a Northern Oncilla, a small wild cat with spots—similar in appearance to an ocelot or margay, but smaller. I’m a sucker for wild cats (I used to volunteer at a globally accredited big cat sanctuary), so for me, it was a no-brainer. I gave up the near-guaranteed antpitta for the slim hope of seeing the oncilla.

Alas, it didn’t show. But that’s all the more reason to return to Mirador el Roble someday.

🌆 A Productive Stop in Jardín

That evening, we returned to Jardín, exhausted from the day’s adventures. Over dinner and drinks, we discussed the next morning’s plan. While the main activity for the day would be driving to our next location near Manizales, our guide and Jeff wanted to check out a promising new birding site in Jardín before we left. We agreed to give it a shot—with a much more humane 7:00 a.m. departure time.

Despite the temptation to sleep in, we were all glad we went. We saw three incredibly shy species, two of which we wouldn’t see again on the trip:

Green Jay
Black-chested Jay
Red-bellied Grackle

Not only did we see them, we got beautiful, extended looks as they came into the feeder station and perched nearby. We also had good views of an Andean Emerald, a small but striking hummingbird.

A Black-chested Jay peers through the foliage, its bold plumage and vivid blue eye-ring standing out against the forest backdrop. Found in northern South America, this intelligent and social species often travels in noisy family groups, making it a lively presence in the canopy.

After a few hours of shooting, we headed back for lunch, then made the drive to Manizales. We arrived by late afternoon and settled into our hotel, enjoyed dinner as a group, and headed to bed—another early morning was ahead.

🏞️ Hacienda el Bosque: Altitude and Antpittas

We were up early again, with breakfast waiting for us at Hacienda el Bosque, a renowned birding lodge and working farm. The property sits at about 10,000 feet, the highest elevation we’d experienced so far—and we definitely felt it while moving between locations.

*Stunning view into the valley from Hacienda el Bosque.*

After breakfast, we hiked down a steep, muddy trail to find the Equatorial Antpitta. The way down was fine (if slippery), and we got fantastic views of the bird. The way up, however, was another moment of me embarrassingly huffing and puffing—altitude is no joke.

An Equatorial Antpitta pauses on the forest floor, its round body and long legs giving it the classic “egg on stilts” appearance. Shy and ground-dwelling, this elusive species is a prized sighting in the cloud forests of the Colombian Andes.

Next, we headed to another blind where we hoped to see the Crescent-faced Antpitta and Barred Fruiteater. The antpitta was extremely shy. The tension in the blind was palpable as we waited. Thankfully, the fruiteater kept us company—along with hot coffee and chocolate con leche.

A Barred Fruiteater perches quietly in the cloud forest canopy, its olive-green plumage and finely barred chest blending seamlessly with the misty surroundings. This high-Andean species is a favorite among birders for its subtle beauty and calm, cooperative demeanor.

Finally, the Crescent-faced Antpitta made a brief appearance, hopping from branch to rock to ground, then vanishing into the brush. Mission accomplished.

A Crescent-faced Antpitta emerges briefly from the underbrush, its bold facial markings and secretive nature making it one of the most sought-after birds in the Andes. Endemic to high-elevation cloud forests, this elusive species is rarely seen and even more rarely photographed.

Later in the day, we visited more open areas to photograph hummingbirds and the Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan. We ended up sitting in chairs, relaxed, watching birds fly in and out. I even put my camera away for part of the afternoon—just to be present with nature.

A Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan perches in the misty highlands of the Colombian Andes, its colorful bill and slate-blue plumage adding a splash of vibrance to the cloud forest. Elusive and charismatic, this striking species is a highlight for birders exploring South America’s montane ecosystems.

🥩 Dinner Woes

We returned to the hotel for dinner at the on-site steakhouse, which unfortunately took over three hours. More than an hour of that was spent waiting after we’d ordered. By the time dinner ended, we were all tired, cranky, and ready for bed.

And—you guessed it—we had another early start the next morning.

🌄 Into the Páramo: Los Nevados and the Buffy Helmetcrest

We headed to Los Nevados National Park, targeting a very special bird in a very unique habitat: the páramo, a high-altitude ecosystem at around 11,500 feet. This was the highest elevation of our trip.

Our target? The Buffy Helmetcrest—a large, striking hummingbird endemic to Colombia and found only in this habitat. The global population is estimated at fewer than 1,000 adults. We were very lucky: we saw one almost immediately after arriving, and were able to get a few more views as it visited flowers near the park entrance.

A Buffy Helmetcrest perches among páramo vegetation in Colombia’s Los Nevados National Park. Endemic to the high Andes and found only at extreme altitudes, this striking hummingbird is a rare gem with fewer than 1,000 adults remaining in the wild.

💧 Termales del Ruiz: Rare Hummingbirds and Cloud Forest Magic

Afterward, we descended slightly to Hotel Termales del Ruiz for lunch and more birding. The hotel is known for its natural hot springs, Andean birdlife, and incredible mountain views.

We saw multiple birds, but a few standouts were: Shining Sunbeam, Lacrimose Mountain Tanager, and our elusive star: the Rainbow-bearded Thornbill.

This dazzling hummingbird doesn’t come to feeders, so we had to roam the grounds and stake out a flower patch. I had a brief but unforgettable look, managing to snap a few photos showing off the male’s namesake rainbow throat. The bird didn’t return to that spot, and we only saw distant glimpses for the rest of the afternoon.

A male Rainbow-bearded Thornbill flashes his dazzling iridescent throat feathers in the high Andes of Colombia. This elusive hummingbird doesn’t visit feeders, making any sighting—let alone a photograph—of his vibrant “rainbow beard” a rare and breathtaking reward.

🍽️ The Great Dinner Detour

Still reeling from the previous night’s dining disaster, Jeff asked our guide and driver if there was anywhere else we could eat. Hoping for a short drive to a local restaurant, we instead ended up on a 90-minute round trip to a restaurant in Manizales proper. The food was excellent, and seeing the city was a bonus—but it did nothing to help our exhaustion.