From Rough Roads to Rainbow Feathers: Wrapping Up My Colombia Birding Trip

Anna Orr
Aug 9
6 min read

Updated: Aug 19

🚙 The Bumpy Road to El Color de mis Reves

Day 6 began with an adventure just getting to our destination. We headed to El Color de mis Reves, a glamping site outside of Manizales known for its birdwatching. Because of the remote location, we swapped our 15-passenger van for a caravan of 4x4 vehicles and tackled an incredibly rough mountain track—at one point crossing an actual streambed!

A Bar-bellied Woodpecker grips the bark of a highland tree in the Colombian Andes, its distinctive barred underparts and olive-green back blending seamlessly with the forest. This uncommon species is most often found in montane habitats, making each sighting a special treat for birders.

The jostling was worth it. We started the morning early, greeted by a host of tanagers, a Masked Trogon, and two very unexpected woodpeckers: the Crimson-mantled Woodpecker and the Bar-bellied Woodpecker. It was a serene beginning—just us, our coffee, and the birds.

A Crimson-mantled Woodpecker clings to a mossy tree trunk in the Colombian Andes, its vibrant red plumage and golden crown standing out against the cloud forest greenery. This striking woodpecker is a favorite sighting for birders exploring high-elevation habitats.

🐦 The Bicolored Antpitta & a Missing Owl

After another delicious homemade breakfast, we made our way to a spot for our next target: the Bicolored Antpitta. On the way, our guide and the property host tried attracting an Andean Pygmy Owl by playing its call. We heard one answer from close by, but at just 16 cm (6.3 inches) long, finding it in dense forest proved impossible.

The antpitta, however, was far more cooperative, giving us great views and photos—our third antpitta species of the trip.

A Bicolored Antpitta steps cautiously onto the forest floor, its rich chestnut head and breast contrasting with a slate-grey body. Shy and ground-dwelling, this elusive species is a prized find in the montane forests of the Colombian Andes.

🌈 Hummingbirds & the Toucan That Never Came

Back at the main area, we settled into chairs under a sunshade to watch hummingbirds. The star was a Long-tailed Sylph, flashing its iridescent colors as it darted between feeders, flowers, and perches.

After lunch, we set up for the Black-billed Mountain Toucan. And we waited. And waited. We filled memory cards with hummingbird shots, I finished a book on my Kindle, others drifted off in their chairs… but no toucan. We heard them calling across the gorge, but never caught a glimpse. Our first big dip of the trip—but the rest of the day was so good, it hardly mattered—just another reason to return.

A male Long-tailed Sylph pauses on a perch, its shimmering green plumage glowing in the light and its impossibly long tail feathers trailing behind, just moments before taking flight in the Colombian cloud forest.

🍽️ Finally, Dinner Done Right

We bumped our way back down the track for our last night near Manizales. This time, we outsmarted the slow hotel restaurant: we ordered dinner as soon as we got back and asked for it to be ready at 7. It was! A small miracle.

That night, we turned in early, grateful for the extra rest before our travel day.

🏡 Arrival at Araucana Lodge

After breakfast, we loaded the van for a full day’s drive to Araucana Lodge outside of Cali. The journey included a lunch stop, and when we arrived, we headed straight for their hummingbird and tanager feeders to enjoy the late afternoon light.

With its emerald-green feathers, bold bill, and namesake crimson rump, the Crimson-rumped Toucanet adds a splash of color to the misty cloud forests of the Andes. This vibrant species is often spotted moving in small groups through the mid-canopy in search of fruit.

At this lower elevation, we encountered a new lineup of hummers, including the Black-throated Mango, along with some familiar favorites. We also saw our first Crimson-rumped Toucanet—an instant trip favorite. Dinner at Araucana is served family-style, often with fresh ingredients from their own garden, and sometimes shared with the lodge owners. It was warm, welcoming, and unforgettable.

🐦 La Florida – Bosque de Las Aves

Day 8 brought our biggest daily bird list yet: 45 species. Our destination, La Florida – Bosque de Las Aves in the famous KM18 area, has more than 340 recorded bird species. Our main targets were the Multicolored Tanager, Andean Motmot, Little Tinamou, and Chestnut Wood-Quail. We saw all but the Wood-Quail—and plenty more.

The morning was spent near the feeder setups, photographing a steady stream of species. Rain came and went, changing the light and keeping us on our toes. Lunch was a highlight too, featuring the most delicious fresh avocado I’ve ever eaten.

A male Multicolored Tanager gleams like a living jewel in the Colombian cloud forest, its brilliant mix of yellow, green, blue, and black making it one of the most striking—and sought-after—tanagers in South America. Endemic to Colombia, this species is considered vulnerable due to habitat loss.

🐦 Little Tinamou & A Hummingbird in the Hand

After lunch, we made our way to a photography hide for the Little Tinamou. The muddy path passed through a hummingbird photography area that was buzzing with activity. After 20 minutes with no sign of the Tinamou, I wandered over and found myself surrounded by hummingbirds—including the White-booted Racket-tail. In a magical moment, I fed one from a dropper in my hand.

Eventually, the Little Tinamou appeared—an unassuming but incredibly shy forest-dweller, rarely seen and even more rarely photographed. It was an honor to get such great views.

A Little Tinamou emerges quietly from the dense undergrowth, offering a rare glimpse of this secretive forest bird. More often heard than seen, its soft, whistled call is a familiar sound in Colombia’s lowland and foothill forests.

A White-booted Racket-tail hovers gracefully midair, its gleaming green body and distinctive tail streamers catching the light. The tiny white tufts on its legs—its “boots”—add a charming touch to this dazzling Andean hummingbird.

🐦 The Final Bird Count

We started our last day thinking we couldn’t top our 45-species record. We were wrong.

Before breakfast, we stopped at a random roadside spot for the Crested Ant Tanager and found it—plus a dozen other species. Then it was on to Doña Dora’s (Avistamiento de aves Doña Dora – KM 55), a famous birding site and restaurant that’s been attracting birds since 1998.

Perched quietly in the gloom of the Colombian forest, a Crested Ant Tanager shows off its vivid red plumage and distinctive crest. Even in extremely low light, this rare Colombian endemic stands out as a striking presence among the branches.

Over coffee and chocolate con leche, we ticked off new species like the Toucan Barbet, Glistening Green Tanager, the lemon form of the Flame-rumped Tanager, and more. Breakfast came with incredible homemade cheese empanadas that I still dream about.

A Toucan Barbet perches in the cloud forest canopy, its striking mix of red, yellow, blue, and black plumage making it one of the most colorful birds of the Andes. This vibrant species is a sought-after sighting in the montane forests of Colombia and Ecuador.

A Flame-rumped Tanager of the lemon variety perches among the foliage, its bright yellow rump contrasting sharply with its black plumage. Found in the Andean regions of Colombia and Ecuador, this striking color morph adds a burst of sunshine to the cloud forest canopy.

🌿 Hummingbirds, Piculets, and a Perfect Farewell

From the upper deck, we spotted the Greyish Piculet, a Colombian endemic, and the tiny Common Tody-Flycatcher. In the hummingbird lineup, we added the Empress Brilliant and Rufous-gaped Hillstar.

We finished the day at San Felipe, but fatigue had set in. Having already seen its regular visitors earlier in the trip, we headed back to Araucana Lodge for one last golden-hour session with the feeders. I was still hunting for a perfect male Black-throated Mango shot, and was thankful to finally capture it on our last evening.

A male Black-throated Mango drinks from a flower, his iridescent green body and bold black throat stripe catching the light. This striking hummingbird ranges from Panama through much of northern South America, adding a flash of brilliance to tropical gardens and forest edges.

That night, we shared a final dinner, lingering over drinks and laughter with our guides, driver, and lodge owner Chris. It was the perfect ending to an unforgettable trip.

💬 Final Thoughts

Looking back over these days in Colombia, I’m struck by how much this trip was about more than just the birds — though the birds were extraordinary. From the thrill of spotting species I’d only dreamed of, to the quiet joy of sharing coffee at a kitchen table in a mountain lodge, Colombia offered an experience that was as rich in human warmth as it was in biodiversity. The landscapes shifted from misty cloud forests to high páramo and lush tropical gardens, each revealing its own treasures and challenges. We counted dozens of lifers, endured plenty of early mornings and muddy trails, and were rewarded with moments that will stay with me forever — a hummingbird hovering just inches from my face, the distant call of a toucan across a gorge, the laughter of new friends at the end of a long day. Colombia is a place that gets under your skin in the best possible way, and as I close this series, I know it’s not a question of if I’ll return, but when.